Copacabana Beach
Most travellers know of Copacabana, but half of them will tell you it's
the place Lola lost her youth and her Tony. In fact, Copacabana is one
of the world's great beaches, wedged on a strip of land at the foot of the most dramatic hills in very dramatic Rio de Janeiro. You could spend
weeks in Brazil without leaving Copacabana and lots of people do just that.
With a population of 350,000 spread through just 110 streets in four narrow
blocks, Copacabana has one of the world's highest population densities,
giving it a non-stop party atmosphere. For pure city excitement, Copacabana is Rio's liveliest theatre.
Copacabana runs for 5km (3mi) and is so wide that it's more of a sandy
park than beach. To get to the water, you must cross an expanse that
includes full-size soccer fields and volleyball courts - watch a couple
of games and you'll understand why the Brazilians are such a force in
these sports. The beach is also the scene of much of Rio's petty crime - go
for a swim here leaving your things unattended and there's zero chance of
them being there on your return. Many travel to the beach in nothing but
their bathers and a flimsy towel, so they've got nothing to lose. The big hotels employ security guards to patrol the areas in front of their hotels.
Copacabana first gained fame in 1923 with the opening of the Copacabana
Place Hotel, South America's first luxury digs. Casinos soon followed and
the beach quickly evolved into an international watering hole for world
celebrities. In 1948, three Argentine girls caused a storm on the beach by sunbaking in two-piece swimsuits. From then on, world swimwear fashion
would be led by this beach.
There's always something happening on the beach during the day and on the
sidewalks at night: drinking, singing, eating and all kinds of people
checking out the scene. Tourists watching Brazilians, Brazilians watching
tourists; the poor from nearby shanties eyeing the rich; the rich avoiding the poor; prostitutes looking for tricks, johns looking for treats (it's the
heart of Rio's recreational sex industry. There are many boites (bars with strip shows) and prostitutes; anything and everyone is for sale). | 
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